Fengdu Ghost City

The “Ghost City” of Fengdu was founded over 1800 years ago. Although part of it is submerged due to the Three Gorges Dam, Fengdu is still a site rich in legend and Chinese history. Open daily from 9am to 5pm, you can visit Fengdu for CNY 80. To get a bird’s-eye view, you can also take a cable car tour for CNY 20 (round-trip) or CNY 15 (one-way).

Legend has it that Fengdu is the home of the dead who lived worthy lives while the evil go to hell. The Han Dynasty gave the city its name and reputation. The imperial court sent two officials to Ming Mounain so that they could learn Taoism. It is said that these men (Yin Changsheng and Wang Fangping) became immortal through their studies. Despite this relationship to Taoism, Fengdu also focuses on Confucianism and Buddhism. Over forty-two different temples have been built on this site and, during the Tang Dynasty; the temples began showing images of life in hell, contributing to the dichotomy of the afterlife and the idea that good people received a good afterlife.

A series of trials leading to the afterlife are depicted at Fengdu. These tests are at the Nothing-to-Be-Done-Bridge, the Ghost Torturing Pass and the Tianzi Palace. Visitors to Fengdu can see all three, getting the full picture of the Taoist afterlife.

At the Nothing-to-Be-Done-Bridge, the afterlife and the world are connected. This initial test separates the good people and the evil people in the middle of three arches on the bridge. Those judged to be good get to continue on across the bridge. Those who were evil in life fall off the bridge. It is said that a visit to the bridge brings good luck to those who see it.

The people who survive the bridge then go to the Ghost Torturing Pass, where the King of Hell judges them. In front of the Pass’s 18 sculptures, the dead face demons while Yama, the King makes his judgment. Those who succeed at this test proceed on to the third and final trial, in the Tianzi Palace.

The Tianzi Palace is almost 3,000 square yards in area and over 30 feet high in the gateway arch. There people wishing to move forward to the afterlife must stand, on one foot, atop a stone in front of the palace gate. The soul who led a good life will manage the task and an evil soul will fail and go to hell to be punished, legend says. Before moving on to hell, however, the condemned souls can view their loved ones once more by stopping at the recently-added Last-Glance-at-Home-Tower.

Despite the emphasis on judgment and the afterlife, those in search of more cheery sights will be rewarded by the annual fair at Fengdu. This celebration is held March 3rd through the 5th and showcases folk art and performance. Keep it in mind as you plan your cruise river trip, if Fengdu is on your list of highlights to see.

Fengdu City is at the north section of the Yangtze. 107 miles outside of Chongqing, it’s advisable to arrive by boat or by cruise ship. You can reach the temples easily from a nearby dock.